Shipton Spire

Slide background
Slide background
Slide background
Slide background

 Zone:   Permitted

Three miles across the Trango Glacier and just above the confluence of the North and South Hainabroq Glaciers was the elusive Shipton Spire. Shipton Spire stands two hours walk from Trango Towers Group on Upper Trango Glacier. It rises out of the massive glacial junction with its walls looking stunning and fierce. Many climbers from around the world are attracted by these rock towers. The climbing is hard but the rock quality is superb. On its major route a 29 pitch, 4,400 ft. big-wall with the pitch rated 6c, 7b and 7b+ certainly offer best technical climb one can expect on a Karakoram granite tower.  

WOMEN AND CHALK 
New route opened 26/7-15/8/2001 by Mauro ‘Bubu’ Bole on the East Face of Shipton Spire (5850 m), a spectacular granite tower in the Trango valley, Pakistan. The three-man expedition consisted of Mauro Bole, his climbing partner Mario Cortese and the photographer/cameraman Fabio Dandri.

Where: Shipton Spire East Face (5850m), Pakistan
Altitude: Between 4500m and 5700m.
Grade: Almost always harder than 6c, some pitches 7c. One pitch 8a above 5000m. See topo
Length: 29 pitches, 1150m high

Getting there:
Islamabad – Skardu - Askoli (bus + jeep) , the small village that acts as the starting point for all trekking in the Baltoro region.  2 days trek leads to Paju, another day leads across a glacial moraine to Shipton Spire BC, a beautiful grassy triangle that manages to survive the onslaught of the glacier nearby.
Route description: 
Continuous and logical series of cracks and corners that take an obvious vertical line from the summit of Shipton Spire. 1150m long, it climbs the magnificent vertical and overhanging granite wall to the crest beneath the summit, where it joins up with the 1997 American "Nef des Fous". The unclimbed north faces of Shipton Spire (5885m) in the Uli Biaho Group of Pakistan's Karakoram. The big pillar on the left, ending at an obvious pointed top with a notch beyond, is the northeast pillar forming the far right side of the southeast face. The front face of the pillar is taken by the Slovak route, Prisoners of the Shipton (5.11d A3, 900m to the notch, Koller-Linek-Podrabradsky, 2005). Koller and Linek followed Ship of Fools to within 80 meters of the summit at WI 5+. The new Spanish route (A4+, 870m of climbing, Vidal, 2007) climbs close to the right edge of the pillar to reach the notch. In 2005 Gabo Cmarik and Dodo Kopold hoped to climb into the large hanging couloir on the north face from the rock rib on the right. Unfortunately, they were forced to retreat before reaching it, when Cmarik became ill with sunstroke. The ever-popular Shipton Spire (5885m) in Pakistan's Karakoram gained two new lines this summer: the first by a team of four Russians who took the full height of the southeast face, and the second a spirited solo effort by Spain's foremost female big wall climber, Silvia Vidal. She climbed the shorter but no less steep northeast pillar and did not continue to the summit. In August of that year these two Slovaks and Juraj Podrabradsky completed a line attempted the previous summer by Koller, Linek and, on that occasion, Gabo Cmarik. They reached the top of the vertical northeast pillar at a notch, where Ship of Fools (5.11 A2 WI 6, 27 pitches, 1300m, Ogden-Synnott, 1997) comes in from the left. Above, Koller and Linek continued up Ship of Fools (which follows the difficult mixed northeast ridge) before retreating 80 meters from the summit. As far as the notch and junction with Ship of Fools, the 900-meter Slovak route, Prisoners of the Shipton, gave difficulties of 5.11d and A3. Vidal fixed the first 200 meters of the wall to the right of Prisoners and then spent twenty-one straight days on the face in capsule style, making twenty solitary bivouacs before reaching the notch at ca. 5300 meters. Her route, Life is Lilac, didn't follow any strong features and therefore required continuous hard aid; several pitches of A4 and a crux of A4+, finishing with mixed climbing. Above, continuing toward the summit via Ship of Fools involves difficult mixed/ice climbing with long traverses. Vidal had already decided that this wasn't a good idea for a solo climber and was content to descend from the top of the pillar after 870 meters of climbing. During her stay at and above advanced base camp she was entirely alone and carried neither radio nor phone, commenting that it was "a great experience." Well over to the left the Russian team of Evgeny Korol, Andrey Muryshev, Sergey Nilkov and Denis Savelev also spent twenty days on their route during very much the same period as Vidal was climbing hers. The Russians originally planned to attempt the unclimbed south face of the Spire but found the approach up the glacier just too difficult and dangerous. Instead they switched to an independent line up available rock between Baltese Falcon (5.11 A4, 36 pitches, 1300m, Boyd-Child-Foweraker, 1996) and Women and Chalk (5.12d/5.13b, 29 pitches, ca. 1200m, Bole-Cortese-Dandri, 2001). The four Russians climbed capsule style up the southeast face, in the top section following a prominent right-facing corner/depression. They reached the top of the wall after enduring a full week of bad weather and having climbed pitches of 5.10d and A4. They then continued up the taxing mixed summit ridge to the highest point, which they reached on July 30. In all, thirty-two pitches were required for this 1300-meter route. Enjoy your upcoming events in Pakistan with Mashabrum Expeditions (your trusted adventure partner).                   
                        

 

 

Range:
Karakoram
Altitude
5850/85m
Duration:
  30 Days
Best Time:
June – September

SERVICES ARE INCLUDED:

Transportation:

1.         Pick/drop from the airport and Sightseeing in Islamabad city
2.         All transportations for Skardu – Askoli and back to Islamabad

Accommodation: 
Twin bed room with bed & breakfast only (Twin Sharing) in each hotel.

 1.   Islamabad 03 nights

 2.  Chilas/Naran 02 nights (Subject to flight) optional

 3.  Skardu 03 nights

Other Services:       
1.         Local staff daily wages, insurance, food and their equipment.
2.         Low porters to carry trekking foods, member personal to all mentioned places.
3.         Weight allowed for the member, for going up 75kg and coming down 50kg client can bring their personal equipments for climbing. 
4.         Foods for the trek and Base Camp for the members and staffs
5.         Sleeping tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, toilet tent, table, chairs and kitchen utensils
6.         Assistance for reconfirmation of the international flight tickets
7.         All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee
8.         Low Porters equipments, daily wages, insurance
9.         Documentation for climbing permit and invitation letter for visa          

10.       CKNP west management fee

11.       Peak Royalty fee

12.       Local Guide Kit allowance, food, flight fare.

13.      Electric Generator / Solar system for the base camp.

14.     Heating system for the base camp mess tent

•           SERVICES NOT INCLUDED:

1.            Member international flight ticket 

2.            Member personal insurance 

3.            Helicopter emergency rescue Service for In case of any emergency, Advance deposit15000$ it’s refundable but they will cut down their service charges 300$ if we do not use service.

4.            Any kind of climbing gears 

5.            Any kind of personal equipments and expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email and soft drinks etc

6.            Room services, laundry

7.            Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment's) 

8.            EPI Gas, Oxygen, Ropes etc

9.            High porter/Climbing Sherpa

10.         Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if member want to stay more days somewhere

Note: Members has to travel together in one group and no one can split the group. If anyone will split the group then all cost/expenses he/she has to pay directly, we are not responsible and we will charge each and everything.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF METT

HOW TO BOOK?

We recommend booking well in advance by sending a nonrefundable deposit of 25% USD and the tour price with a minimum deposit of 50 % USD per person in advance. Some of the tours and ground arrangements may require a higher deposit of up to 80% with booking conditions. These details will be provided on confirmation of your booking. The deposit is required within 5 days of confirmation to hold your booking. The booking confirmation will include the exact deposit amount required and the due date of final payment. Please read these terms and conditions carefully and raise any questions you may have prior to making your booking. Receipt of deposit will be taken as an understanding by Mashabrum Expeditions that the customer has checked their confirmed travel arrangements and has read and agrees to abide by the terms and conditions. Any verbal quote given is an estimate only of the price which will be subject to advice on confirmation of the reservation, after which you will have 5 days to pay your nonrefundable deposit with 50 % in advance tour price.

PRICE

Price we will give you after few discussion by e-mail or phone call. Should these costs change it may be necessary to make a surcharge on the price of your holiday which will be advised to you at the time you book. However no surcharge in respect to cost or currency fluctuations will be made to the arrangements of your holiday once full payment has been received by Mashabrum Expeditions, unless any changes are made to your booking in accordance with these terms and conditions. This price guarantee does not apply to: (i) fares, charges or levies imposed by airlines up until ticketing; or (ii) any taxes, charges or levies imposed by any government or their agencies and the banking transfer charges.

AMENDMENTS

One change per booking is permitted free of charge. Each subsequent change will incur a fee of 50 $ per amendment to cover extra administrative and communication costs. In addition, cancellation and/or amendment fees may also be imposed minimum of 500 $ or depending on the nature of the change. To the extent we are able to do so, we will advise you of all applicable cancellation and/or amendment charges at the time of confirmation of your booking. Separate conditions apply to air arrangements and are set out in Section 9 of these terms and conditions.

LATE BOOKINGS

A fee of 30 $ per booking will be levied for bookings made within 10 working days of departure from your home land. Any booking request made within 10 working days or within any relevant supplier’s cancellation period cannot be processed until full payment has been received by Mashabrum Expeditions.

LAND ONLY SERVICE CHARGE

A service charge of 200 $ per booking will be charged for land only bookings of less than 2 night’s accommodation or 2 days car hire.

PAYMENTS

We don't accept any cards. Cash payment/bank transfer is only the option for booking.

CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS FOR EXPEDITIONS

If you decide to cancel your program or you are unable to travel, Mashabrum Expeditions will refund the amount you have paid less (i) our reasonable costs and (ii) any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers. It is likely that other suppliers’ cancellation fees (which we will pass on to you) will be greater when cancellation takes place closer to the departure date. If you notify us of cancellation more than 30 days before departure, then the cancellation charges are only 25% nonrefundable deposit. If you notify us of cancellation less than 30 days before departure, the cancellation charges may be up to 50% of the total booking cost. Regrettably cancellation charges cannot be waived. No refunds are available for unused services after departure from your home land.

CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS FOR TREKKING/ TOURS

If you decide to cancel your program or you are unable to travel, Mashabrum Expeditions will refund the amount you have paid less (i) our reasonable costs and (ii) any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers. It is likely that other suppliers’ cancellation fees (which we will pass on to you) will be greater when cancellation takes place closer to the departure date. If you notify us of cancellation more than 15 days before departure, then the cancellation charges are only 25% of your deposit. If you notify us of cancellation less than 15 days before departure, the cancellation charges may be up to 50% of the total booking cost. Regrettably cancellation charges cannot be waived. No refunds are available for unused services after departure from your home land.

- CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS – AIR ARRANGEMENTS

Cancellation fees will apply as required by airlines regulations and will vary dependent upon the type of airfare utilized. Airfare prices and conditions are subject to change or withdrawal without notification until ticketed. Full payment is required before tickets can be issued. Mashabrum Expeditions cannot be held liable for any increases in prices or changes in any airline regulations. Foreign currency airfares and airport taxes may fluctuate and are subject to the rate of exchange on date of ticket issue. Increases in airport taxes are not the responsibility of Mashabrum Expeditions and can be imposed up to departure. To the extent we are able to do so we will advise you of any increases of which we are aware at the time of confirmation of your booking.

CONSUMER CLAIMS

Should you encounter any problems on your holiday it is always better to try and solve it directly with the Tour Staff. If it is not possible to do so and you wish to lodge a complaint please do so in writing within 30 days of completing your Mashabrum Expeditions arrangements. These Terms and Conditions do not purport to exclude any statutory rights available to you and must in all cases be read subject to those statutory provisions.

NOT INCLUDED IN THE TOUR COST

Visas, Member insurance, Royalty Fee (climbing fee), Trekking permit Fee, Liaison Officer, Heli captor Rescue service, High camp foods, Oxygen, EPI Gas, Climbing gears, Custom clearance charges for Cargo, excess baggage charges (over applicable airline allowances), extra meals, room service, Phone calls, laundry, any kind of drinks, tips (Bakshish) and items of a personal nature are not included in the tour cost. Any pre-paid airfare taxes and surcharges are clearly identified in your booking confirmation if not included in the tour cost.

VARIATIONS

Considerable care has been taken to compile the information in this site but circumstances not within Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours control may necessitate changes in itineraries, accommodation and costs in which case you will be informed as soon as possible. When it is necessary to change a hotel Mashabrum Expeditions reserves the right to substitute accommodation of at least a similar standard. METT cannot be held responsible for any changes which may occur and reserves the right to increase the price of any travel arrangement up to the date of payment in full (or the date of ticketing in the case of airfares). This includes adjustment for fuel surcharges, airfare increases as well as international exchange rate fluctuations. To the extent we are able to do so; we will notify you of any applicable change in price prior to you making payment in full. METT may update these terms and conditions at anytime. Any changes to these terms and conditions made after booking will be advised to you. The current version of terms and conditions will always be found on the website www.mashabrum.com If as a result of any of these variations either: (i) there is a material increase in the cost of your tour during the period between confirmation of your booking and the date on which you pay for your tour in full; or, (ii) you will suffer a material detriment, then you may cancel your tour, in which case METT will refund the amount you have paid less any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers.

HOTEL DESCRIPTIONS AND PHOTOGRAPHS

Mashabrum Expeditions will tell you the name and address of the hotel and their standard but Pictures may not show to the clients.

INSURANCE

Mashabrum Expeditions will provide the insurance only for our staff and local porters and METT not responsible for the clients insurance. In respect of illness, injury, death, loss of baggage and personal item cancellation and curtailment. You may purchase a suitable external policy with specialist travel insurance provider and give us their contact with your policy numbers in case of emergency.

INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL

You are responsible for all immigration, passport, visa, health, quarantine and customs laws, regulations, orders, demands or other requirements of countries visited or transited. Official travel advice issued by the Pakistan Department of Foreign Affairs and Ministry of Interior. We recommend that you review this information both prior to making your booking and prior to departure.

UNLICENSED ENTITY DISCLAIMER

If you request Mashabrum Expeditions to arrange for the provision of products or services by a person or company which is not licensed in accordance with any applicable law, Mashabrum Expeditions accepts no liability (whether in contract for negligence or otherwise) for any loss or damage suffered by you as a result.

RESPONSIBILITY

Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours accepts bookings subject to the following conditions.

(i) A booking is accepted only after METT receives the required deposit and issues the client or their travel agent confirmation invoices. The balance must be paid no later than 30 days before departure otherwise METT will treat the booking as cancelled regardless of whether a deposit is being held.(ii) METT only acts as a coordinator of tours and an agent for the owners, contractors and suppliers of transportation, accommodation and/or other related travel services provided and assumes no responsibility for the loss or damage to baggage, property or for injury, illness, death or for any damages or claims howsoever caused arising directly or indirectly from accidents, loss or damage to person or property, delays, transport failures, strikes, wars and uprisings or acts of God etc over which we have no control. All coupon receipts and tickets are issued subject to the terms and conditions specified by third party suppliers and all services are subject to the laws of the country where the services are provided.(iii) All matters directly relating to the services provided by Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours.

CANCELLATION BY US

Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours reserves the right to cancel any Small Group Journey if minimum passenger numbers are not attained. Operation of these tours is dependent on a minimum number of persons booking on your tour. We will advise you of such cancellations no later than 30 days before departure date. However, METT reserves the right to cancel a Small Group Journey at any time before departure due to Force Majeure (as defined below) or METT reasonable consideration of adverse government travel advice. With any form of cancellation, METT will offer you alternative arrangements, and if the price of your alternative booking is a lower value than the original booking we will refund the difference to you. If you do not accept alternative arrangements we will refund all payments you have made to METT, in the case of Force Majeure or government travel advice refunds will be less any of METT unrecoverable costs. METT will not be liable for any additional costs incurred by you. METT will not be liable for any delay in, change to or cancellation of trips due to a circumstance beyond the reasonable control of METT and includes, but is not limited to, acts of God, fire, accident, interruptions to energy supplied, war or threat of war, riot, civil strife, terrorist activity, industrial dispute, disease, industrial or nuclear disaster, adverse weather conditions and strikes.

YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES

Mashabrum Expeditions Treks & Tours will not accept responsibility or liability for any clients who contravenes any law or regulation of any country visited. At all times the decision of the Local Guide / Tour Leader or representative will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip. You must, at all times, strictly comply with the laws, customs, and foreign exchange and drug regulations of all countries visited. Should you fail to comply with the above, or should you interfere in our reasonable opinion with the well-being of the group then the leader or company representative may order you to leave the trip immediately with no right of refund.

PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL CONDITIONS AND AGE LIMITS

Before making a booking you must advise us of any preexisting medical condition, mobility impairment and/or disability that might reasonably be expected to increase the risk of you requiring medical attention, or that might affect the normal conduct of a trip and the enjoyment of other trip members. You may be required to provide an assessment of your medical condition from a qualified medical practitioner if requested. If you fail to adequately notify us of any pre-existing medical conditions and/or disability, we reserve the right, at our reasonable discretion, to cancel your participation in a trip at any time, including after the commencement of your trip, with no right of refund if your medical condition, mobility impairment and/or disability could be reasonably expected to affect the normal conduct of the trip and the enjoyment of other trip members.

Whatsapp