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Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different
routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed
the first section of the pillar along the English
route and then continued via a new line which
required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team
spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick
Fowler's English route between 5th and 11th August
1987.
In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the
leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to
Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them
for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the
area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge
by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi
(Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine
Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same
year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata.
Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the
area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma
Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that
Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans. |